sail-world.com
 
 
News Home Cruising Photo Gallery Video Gallery

 

Sail-World.com : Fine Croatia Sailing - and take your Hiking Boots

Fine Croatia Sailing - and take your Hiking Boots

'View from the Bell Tower in Rab'    .

Croatia has over 1000 islands along its shores, plenty to explore in sailing holiday after sailing holiday - but the best advice is to take your hiking boots to discover the real secrets of the islands.

Anna Pavord here describes her latest adventures in Croatia, sailing and hiking - describing just how much she enjoys wandering among the fields of strange flowers and herbs, even discovering some local delicacies.


The view from the 12th-century bell tower in Rab is stupendous. Looking south over the silvery Adriatic, you can just see the long green profile of Pag floating in the haze and behind, the tough, stony slopes of the mountains on mainland Croatia.

There are four of these bell towers strung out along the seaward side of Rab and we were poised like gargoyles on the top of the tallest. Directly below, the cliff tumbled almost vertical to the sea, hung with fleshy rock samphire and fennel. The stone parapet didn't come much above my knees, so I hung on rather grimly up there.

Hvar -  .. .  
Fortunately, the best view of all was underneath the tower where high walls enclosed a long strip of garden, lined with tomatoes, peppers, beans and cabbages.

Fig, apricot and pomegranate trees clustered at one end by an iron door, where a nun, in full white habit, was hoeing among the vegetables. It was like a scene from a late medieval psalter.

The vegetables have changed of course and no medieval gardener in Europe would be familiar with tomatoes, which seemed to be the main crop in the cultivated patches we saw.

There had been no rain for two months though, so the verges were as crisp as French toast and there was no sign yet of the wild cyclamen that had been such a feature of our last sailing trip in these parts.

Then we started from Split, and after sailing south to Korcula, Hvar and Vis, came north to the Kornati islands, which run in a long archipelago parallel with the coast.

This time we started from Pula and sailed south by way of Mali Losinj and Dugi Otok until we met ourselves in the Kornatis again. They are weird islands: stripped down, bleached out, spacey, spare. Mostly what you see is rock, cracking through a thin drizzle of grass which is burnt in summer to the colour of pale straw.

Trees (usually pines or olives) are rare. But you feel there as if you are looking at the earth's skeleton, not yet fully fleshed out. The rock bones break through in great sweeps, the strata sometimes running in parallel lines, sometimes whirling in circles like Chelsea buns, dotted with currants of evergreen lentisc. That was quite a common shrub in these parts and you noticed it because it was always a much fresher green than anything else that grew.

There are lovely anchorages in the Kornatis, but it's not good walking country. You feel like a fly trying to get across a cheese grater.

Anchoring couldn’t be more idyllic -  .. .  
The rock, which looks so subtle and smooth from a distance is actually spiky and sharp, shattered into jagged, narrow, upward facing edges. But we rowed ourselves ashore in the dinghy and clambered to the highest point of the islet we were on for the sake of the view.

The yellow stuff along the shore we'd been seeing from the boat turned out to be thistly carlina, the flowerheads dried into flat, spiky crowns. Mixed with it was a silver-blue sea holly, probably Eryngium maritimum, little more than 15-20cm tall here. Given a bit of decent soil it would get twice as big.

Once you are tuned into them, the Kornatis become more and more intriguing. Who for instance built the extraordinary stone walls that run from the shoreline up over the brow of every island, dividing the space up into wide, equal strips?

Apparently the islands were once covered in trees, like Rab, but the woods were cut down to create pastures for sheep. There are no sheep there now, though the island of Pag, further north, and almost equally stark, has become rather famous for its sheep and the cheese made from their milk. There, they graze almost entirely on sage. I couldn't taste the herb in the cheese itself, but it's wonderful stuff, sitting somewhere between a mature pecorino and a young parmesan.

The best walk I had was on Iz when I took off on a track that led out of the harbour at Veli Iz up into the maquis beyond. The outskirts of town provided a perfect opportunity to peer into people's gardens – geraniums of course, cannas, masses of vines, the great black bunches of grapes hanging like stencilled friezes against trellised supports.

I like the randomness of these kinds of patches – you see it in Italy and Spain too – with plants pushed into any container that happens to be to hand. Gardens in England are sometimes in danger of being too self-conscious, too self-regarding, over-produced. It's refreshing to be in a place where, apart from the production of food, gardening is not taken too seriously.

Beyond the town, the track led into wild-looking country, though I'd guess it had once been cultivated. There were signs of terracing and some huge old olive trees. Up there the silence was so heavy it made your ears ring and the air was full of the faintly stewed smell of hot fig leaves.

I picked some of the fruit, small, pale yellowish-green and as sweet as a mouthful of Barbados sugar. Clumps of tall spurge sprouted either side of the track, probably Euphorbia characias, the foliage much bluer than we ever see in Britain. Smilax wound through the branches of myrtle and olive, its glossy red berries hanging like bunches of currants.

As so often in country areas, where no track is without a purpose, my path branched on to a much older way, with stone walls either side and a stone paved floor, no more than five feet wide. Here I was high enough to see right over to the other side of the island; evergreen oaks (Quercus ilex) replaced the olives I had been passing earlier.

But everything was tinder-dry. I was glad when, after watching a spectacular lightning display over the mountains, a thunderstorm hit us on our last night. I thought of the cyclamen tubers underground, twitching in the newly damp earth, sending delicate signals to the growth points on their shoulders.

Croatian Sunset in Girenica Island of Pag -  .. .  



To read the latest news from the Independent, click here




by Anna Pavord, the Independent/Sail-World

  

Click on the FB Like link to post this story to your FB wall

http://one.sail-world.com/index.cfm?nid=50425

3:14 AM Sun 2 Nov 2008 GMT






Click here for printer friendly version
Click here to send us feedback or comments about this story.

Click for further information on
Yachting News

Related News Stories:

05 Jan 2013  The yacht club with no water.
11 Jun 2012  Yacht Club of Monaco-'New clubhouse new horizons,' says Prince Albert
11 Apr 2012  Yacht Club celebrates fifty years
25 Jan 2012  European Yachts of the Year: Beneteau, Oyster, Pogo and Esse
28 Jun 2011  What, actually, is a superyacht? Australia ponders
04 Jun 2009  OBE for Sailing Team Manager Stephen Park
03 Jun 2009  Leaders of world’s premier yacht clubs 'in the same boat'
01 Jun 2009  UK boat builders feel the stress
30 May 2009  Sailing Clubs named as Olympic Pre-Games Training Camp venues
29 May 2009  Queen and Duke of Edinburgh to visit WPNSA
MORE STORIES ...

News - USA and the World

America's Cup: Majority Rules in Protocol and Class changes by Richard Gladwell, Sail-World.com NZL
The America's Cup Events Authority has announced that the majority of the America’s Cup teams have agreed to make changes aimed at significantly reducing costs for the 2017 America’s Cup. Central to these changes is the introduction of an exciting new America’s Cup Class - a wing-sailed, foiling catamaran between 45 and 50 feet, says a statement issued by ACEA. ... [more]  

Trofeo Sofia Iberostar – It was a long day in Palma with the late coming sea breeze delaying racing. Patience paid off and the second day provided great racing and allowed to complete the qualification stage. A seventh race was completed for the kites who will go into medal race mode on Wednesday. ... [more]  

Team SCA is due to round Cape Horn tomorrow between 1200 – 1800 UTC. They are still battling with the elements, squally conditions, sailing in 20 knots of wind, from west-northwest. Sea state is rough and waves are 6 metres high. ... [more]  

For the professional offshore sailors of the world, mast breakages (or any sort of damage to the boat) is an unfortunate occupational hazard. For our rookie Chinese sailors on the other hand, the experience has been shocking, scary and bewildering. The reaction of Liu Xue (Black) is understandably in contrast to the pro crew who know how to manage these kinds of situations. ... [more]  

Volvo Ocean Race: Dongfeng elects to withdraw from Leg 5 by Richard Gladwell Sail-World.com NZL
Dongfeng Race Team announced late tonight that they plan to retire from Leg 5 after breaking their mast in the Southern Ocean on Monday morning. Charles Caudrelier, the boat's French skipper had considered attempting to re-join the 6,776nm leg from Auckland to Itajaí after successfully nursing his red boat to Ushuaia, Argentina earlier in the day. ... [more]  

Volvo Ocean Race: Team SCA - first for over a decade to round the Horn *Feature by Richard Gladwell, Sail-World.com NZL
Within the next 24 hours, God willing, Team SCA will become the first women's crew to round Cape Horn in almost 15 years. Sail-World spoke to 2012 British Olympic representative Annie Lush a few minutes ago. She says they have had snow and plenty of hail in the last 24 hours, and the Chill factor on deck is minus five degrees ... [more]  

Whitbread/Volvo Ocean Race veteran Ross Field has announced he will skipper a team in the 2017 VOR. Field has raced around the world five times, including as crew on the victorious Steinlager in 1990 and as skipper of the winning Whitbread 60 Yamaha in 1994. ... [more]  

Volvo Ocean Race – Team Brunel damaged by Team Brunel - Robbert-Jan Metselaar
Volvo Ocean Race – On Monday afternoon, Team Brunel rounded the infamous Cape Horn, with MAPFRE in their wake. A few hours later, Bouwe Bekking and his crew were forced to slow down, when their J1 headsail became damaged. ... [more]  

Etchells Midwinter Championship – After a beautiful weekend of competitive sailing, Tom Carruthers goes from the man behind the scenes to the man on top of the podium. ... [more]  

Pollution in Rio is a major issue and it could get bigger as this open letter to the U.S. Olympic and Paralympic Congressional Caucus on national health of Olympic sailors suggests. ... [more]  

The ISAF sanctioned World Match Racing Tour (WMRT), the world’s longest running professional sailing series, announced a new and expanded sixteen event schedule for the 2015/16 world championship ... [more]  

The World Match Racing Tour (WMRT) today announced the addition of the Royal Southern Match Cup (10-14 June) to the 2015/16 championship schedule ... [more]  

2015 Trofeo Sofia Iberostar – The focus was on the kitesurfers during the first three days, and especially on Spanish rider Florian Trittel. ... [more]  

Some boats leaped into the lead while others strengthened their front-runner status on the third and final day of racing in the 42nd St. Thomas International Regatta (STIR), presented by TAG Heuer. The 62-boat fleet, boasting entrants from the Caribbean, USA and Europe, competed in eight classes on round-the-buoy and round-the-rock courses with 10 to 15 knots of breeze. ... [more]  

SAP 505 World Championships - Day 3 by Sailing Intelligence
Day three of SAP 505 World Championships saw the return of stronger breezes to Algoa Bay in Port Elizabeth, South Africa. Mike Holt and Carl Smit were the pathfinder boat for the first race of the day, but reigning World Champions found no benefit in having to sail to the right-hand side of the course, while early-out-of-the-gate Ian Pinnell was pleased that his hunch about the left proved correct ... [more]  

Charles Caudrelier: “It’s really hard for everyone, we were leading the race overall and this is a kick in the teeth. Hurts to think about the other teams still in full competition, still sailing.”Dongfeng has not officially retired from leg 5 as yet and skipper, Charles Caudrelier, is still considering the possibility of the race crew continuing on from Ushuaia ... [more]  

Whilst everyone onboard remains in good shape considering circumstances, final miles to Ushuaia are anything but easy. Despite working throughout their day, which is now drawing to a close, the determined men of Dongfeng have not managed to remove all the damaged parts of the broken mast. The original mast rigging that holds up the remaining main section of mast is only in place on the port side. ... [more]  

Day 1 of the 2015 Trofeo Princesa Sofía brought a memorable mix of long delays on some courses and survival conditions on others. High winds flowed down onto the bay through the mountains surrounding Palma, and impacted the racing areas in unpredictable ways. Overall, Day One presented continuous challenges to over 1,200 of the world's best Olympic-class sailors and the US Sailing Team Sperry. ... [more]  

From the Volvo Ocean Race Headquarters in Alicante, we catch up live with the entire fleet live, via satellite, as they near the Mt. Everest of sailing, Cape Horn. We hear from the top four as the round, as well as from Dongfeng Race Team on their recent dismasting, and from TeamSCA about their Cape Horn ETA. A ground-breaking first for live coverage in such a remote location! ... [more]  

Team Alvimedica, the youngest crew in the Volvo Ocean Race, rounded the iconic Cape Horn first today just after 1400 UTC and only 15 minutes ahead of Abu Dhabi Racing, in a hotly contested battle at the front of the fleet. While the 6,776- nautical mile stage from Auckland, New Zealand to Itajai, Brazil, is far from over and there are no race points for reaching the iconic landmark first, a Ca ... [more]  

Four boats in the Volvo Ocean Race celebrated rounding the venerated landmark of Cape Horn on Monday, a pleasure cruelly denied Dongfeng Race Team (Charles Caudrelier/FRA) after the Chinese boat’s mast was broken early in a dramatic day on Leg 5. Team Alvimedica (Charlie Enright/USA) had the considerable honour of leading the battered fleet past the fabled point at 1407 GMT, just 15 minutes cle ... [more]  

Regular weather produces regular results, but sailors, being what they are, are not totally regular, and on the third and final day of the St. Thomas International Regatta they provided some surprises. Sunshine and a fine breeze of around 15-17 knots gave the competitors the challenge they required and they all enjoyed a variety of courses. ... [more]  

Four out of six boats have made it around Cape Horn today. Team Alvimedica, Abu Dhabi Ocean Racing, Team Brunel and Mapfre all rounded the infamous rock all in less than one and a half hours. With a broken FRO sail and electronic problems, the magenta crew now has to find the right balance between safety and racing. ... [more]  

Trofeo Princesa Sofía Iberostar 2015 - The wind played dirty tricks all day in Palma on sailors and race committees who had to juggle with big shifts and different pressure. From 4 to 20 knots, and reaching 40 in some gusts, the wind turned around the bay playing with everybody's nerves! ... [more]  

Dongfeng Race Team, the joint leaders of the Volvo Ocean Race (Charles Caudrelier/FRA) who broke their mast a day ago, eased their stricken boat to dry land and safety on Tuesday. ... [more]  

Volvo Ocean Race – It’s not every day you see something like this. Sunrise in the Southern Ocean has revealed the full extent of the damage through images captured by onboard reporter, Yann Riou ... [more]  

The first regatta in the 2015 Eurosaf Champions Sailing Cup Series has started in Palma, Mallorca, to kick-off the Spring and Summer Olympic Classes European Tour ... [more]  

The official America's Cup website reports that the entered Competitors in the 35th America's Cup will vote this week on changes presented as cost saving measures. In effect, the measures centre around a complete change in the boat already announced in the Protocol nine months ago, and for which several teams have design projects underway. ... [more]  

St. Thomas, U.S. Virgin Islands. Round-the-buoy and round-the-rock courses tested the talents of seasoned sailors and weekend warriors alike on the second day of racing in the 42nd St. Thomas International Regatta (STIR), presented by TAG Heuer. ... [more]  

BVI Spring Regatta and Sailing Festival – Sailors from all over the world have gathered at Nanny Cay Marina for one of the Caribbean's most spectacular sailing events ... [more]  

Volvo Ocean Race has confirmed that Dongfeng Race Team broke its topmast early on Monday (GMT, March 30) but fortunately nobody has been injured and there is no immediate danger to the crew. The incident happened 240 nautical miles west of Cape Horn at 0315 UTC on Monday, in the final hours of the night onboard Dongfeng. ... [more]  

At this stage of this Leg 5 from Auckland to Itajaí, it’s pretty much a sprint to Cape Horn. The conditions are favourable for this with the north-westerly winds blowing 30 knots and the sea state being “relatively” flat with 2.5 to 3-metre waves. ... [more]  

J/22 Midwinter Championship overall by Julie & Christopher Howell
Terry Flynn, with crew Mark Foster and Matt Romberg, earned the J/22 Midwinter Championship at Jackson Yacht Club. All nine races were completed, and the League City, Texas helmsman on Tejas scored a (14), 3, 2, 5, 1, 3, 2, 3, 3 for 22 points. Flynn is no stranger to J/22 Championship trophies, including the World Championship, North American Championship and Midwinter Championship. ... [more]  

O’Pen BIC takes North American Championships to new levels
2015 St. Thomas International Regatta - 62 yachts stir up excitement
Barcelona World Race - Altadill comes home in triumphant second
Volvo Ocean Race fleet fights two battles in the wild Southern Ocean
J/22 Midwinter Championship – New leader emerges
St Thomas Int Regatta: Some sympathy from Above on Day 2
Volvo Ocean Race – Fleet moves fast to Cape Horn, away from ice limit
2015 Congressional Cup Club Sail-Off - Stage two finals
St. Thomas International Regatta - Spectacular broaches
SAP 505 World Championships - Two bullets fire Holt into early lead
BWR - Barcelona ready to bid 'benvinguda' to Neutrogena Monday
Volvo Ocean Race - Flat to the floor
Volvo Ocean Race - Battered but unbroken
Volvo Ocean Race: Call to Alvimedica - Two days out from Cape Horn *Feature
2015 Malibu WWA Rider Experience schedule announced
Marblehead to Halifax Ocean Race title sponsor announced
Trofeo Princesa Sofia Iberostar - Over 1,200 sailors will compete
Trofeo Princesa Sofia Iberostar -Kiteboarders compete for first time
SAP 505 World Championships - Hamlin in a race against time
Newport to Ensenada Yacht Race now with important sponsor
Barcelona World Race - Home waters   
Volvo Ocean Race - Surfing in the sunshine   
St Thomas Int Regatta: No more of the Up and Down on Day 1   
Volvo Ocean Race: Team Vestas Wind rebuild - Episode 2   
The Transat 2016 – City of Plymouth chosen as host venue   
33rd Garda Optimist Meeting just a week away   
Volvo Ocean Race – The fleet dives south close to the ice limit   
America's Cup boils over with two leading Challengers set to walk away   
Charleston to host Audi Melges 20 National Championship   
46th Trofeo Princesa Sofía - US Sailing Team Sperry headed for Spain   
Volvo Ocean Race - The start of a new day   
Barcelona World Race - And the beat goes on!   
Volvo Ocean Race - bouncing along the barbed wire fence   
America's Cup: Luna Rossa threatens withdrawal over boat change   
Volvo Ocean Race - Skirting new ice limit lines on route to Cape Horn   
2015 BVI Spring Regatta and Sailing Festival - Green is the new black?   
North American Melges 32 fleet, locked and loaded   
Volvo Ocean Race: Fast sailing deep in the Southern Ocean - Video   
America's Cup: Boat shrink mooted to reduce campaign costs   
Volvo Ocean Race - We've found Nemo! - as new ice limit advised   


For this week's complete news stories select    Last 7 Days
   Search All News
For last month's complete news stories select    Last 30 Days
   Archive News







Sail-World.com  


















Switch Default Region to:

Social Media

Asia

Australia

Canada

Europe

New Zealand

United Kingdom


http://www.one.sail-world.com/event_images/image/Twitter_logo_small.png http://www.one.sail-world.com/event_images/image/FaceBook-icon.png  http://www.one.sail-world.com/event_images/image/RSS-Icon.png

United States

Cruising Northern

Cruising Southern

MarineBusiness World

PowerBoat World

FishingBoating World

 

Contact

Commercial

News

Search

Contact Us

Advertisers Information

Submit news/events

Search Stories/Text

Feedback

Advertisers Directory

Newsletter Archive

Photo Gallery

 

Banner Advertising Details

Newsletter Subscribe

Video Gallery

Policies

 

 

 

Privacy Policy

 

 


Cookie Policy

 

 



This site and its contents are © Copyright TetraMedia and/or the original author, photographer etc. All Rights Reserved.  Photographs are copyright by law.  If you wish to use or buy a photograph contact the photographer directly.
XLXL NEW US
LocalAds   DE  ES  FR  IT